🔗 Share this article

When curating a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning establishments. Yet, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the family completely astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” states the proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its original charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning outside its own doors. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this culinary triumph.